Tested my home made head track using FreeTrack + 3 LEDs in a cap model.
I was able to filter out ambiental light, nothing special just tweaking web camera settings... gamma, gain, contrast etc. Works even with my lights on in the room.
Works fine only thing is the head movement is not very smooth it moves in small increments like is taking too long to calculate coordinates, but responds well and with practice and tweaking i got pretty accurate head movement.
ASAP i'll test same thing with FaceTrackNoir maybe that one is faster.
The whole thing costs 1 Euro
(09-18-2014, 08:08 PM)Varanon link Wrote: [ -> ]Same here. I worked around this by using the command line tool to flash it, and then start the GUI and this works
However, I lack input from one axis... might need to re-check the cables, or replace the 6050
I tried flashing it with the command line but I still just get "Error for connecting to COM12" in the GUI. As I say, it works fine with the Calib firmware flashed.
Anyway, I'm going to concentrate on my GY-85 build, as I think the MPU still has issues with drift. If you do think your MPU is faulty, I'd recommended getting a GY-85 instead of another MPU, as the magnetometer allows for cancelling out any drift automatically.
Having said that, the code still needs some work to iron out some issues but it is being worked on by a couple of people. If you can put up with the drift, then you might prefer to stick with the more polished EDtracker MPU software, which might have less issues than the GY-85 code at the moment (but I can't compare them as I can't get it to work myself).
(09-18-2014, 11:51 PM)alias link Wrote: [ -> ]Tested my home made head track using FreeTrack + 3 LEDs in a cap model.
I was able to filter out ambiental light, nothing special just tweaking web camera settings... gamma, gain, contrast etc. Works even with my lights on in the room.
Works fine only thing is the head movement is not very smooth it moves in small increments like is taking too long to calculate coordinates, but responds well and with practice and tweaking i got pretty accurate head movement.
ASAP i'll test same thing with FaceTrackNoir maybe that one is faster.
The whole thing costs 1 Euro
I did find with my previous PC (Phenom II X4 955 @3.5Ghz) that LED tracking with FTNoIR used a fair bit of CPU, maybe 10%, whereas the Pro Micro/GY-85 uses less than 1%, because the Pro Micro does most of the work but unless you've got a very old PC, it shouldn't be jerky like that.
FTNoIR is a lot less buggy than Freetrack in my experience, although you might want to try OpenTrack instead as that seems to be receiving more active development and has some features that FTNoIR doesn't.
Thank doveman. It seems the jerkiness has something to do with number of samples, with FaceTrackNoir using FreeTrack game protovol is much smoother, i only need to find a way to power up my LEDs what i'm using now it gets depleted pretty fast.
Even face track works nice and smooth, but for some reason i can't make my character lean, he does everything else but that.
I'll have a look on OpenTrack.
Probably the easiest way to power your LED clip is with a USB re-chargeable battery.
I used this 1150 mAh one (at least it looks like this but there might be different models, mine is model PPS2)
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Duracell-Mobile-...005EF2TG4, which was light enough to mount on top of my headphones with some velcro. The three LEDs only draw something like 150ma in total so it should last for even the longest gaming sessions. I bought a spare just in case it ran out but I think you could just connect the charging USB cable between the battery and your PC in emergencies to keep using it whilst it's charging. They've got an on/off switch built-in as well, so you can just switch off the battery rather than having to unplug the lead from the clip.
To connect the battery to the clip, you could wire a USB socket to your LED clip but you probably haven't got one handy and they might be expensive or difficult to buy. What I did was cut one end off a USB cable and cut up a couple of audio leads I had lying about, leaving a plug and a socket each with a tail of wire left on and wired the audio plug to the end of the USB cable and the audio socket to the clip. You can see the socket in this photo of my prototype:
http://postimg.org/image/5loonogpt/
If you wanted a bigger/longer-lasting battery, you could get this, although it might be a bit heavy to mount to your headphones in which case you'd have to have it on your desk, with a lead going to your clip.
http://www.tinydeal.com/5600mah-mobile-p...64752.html
Good tips doveman, thanks!
(09-18-2014, 06:00 PM)doveman link Wrote: [ -> ]Making your own LED clip and using a PS3 Eye webcam works quite well for a lot less than trackIR, if you really want the 6DOF.
Ok, after the failure with the MPU 6050, I'll go for that option. Got a PS3 eye from ebay (I hope it's the old model, the new one is supposedly very difficult to remove the filter). Ordering the leds now too...
Now I just need the battery... any pointers ? The amazon link you posted is dead...
Edit: Found it on conrad.de, for about half the retail price (10 Euro vs 25 Euro)
Ok, got all the stuff, made the led assembly, started FreeTrack, get an immediate crash with PS3 eye.
Fucking great. The only proposed fix doesn't work.
Any other ideas ? Anyone here using FreeTrack with a PS3 eye ?
Edit: Fuck FreeTrack, OpenTrack works fine